This is not merely a ham with a lengthy curing period: it is quite simply the best product of our work. Although it is produced in the traditional way, the choice of the thighs is particular, the meats having a different quality and greater quantities of fat to allow for the long curing period. For three weeks the hams absorb salt in a cell which is damp (80%) and cold (from +1 to +4 degrees), after which they rest for three months, drying slowly. Now all depends on the sea air, which carries the balms from the woods of the Apennines down to the plains. Weather permitting, the windows are opened and for nine months this is the procedure. The hams are then moved down to the cellar, where after two years curing is completed. The result is exhalting, but we have to be willing to be exhalted: we have to recognise, almost listen to, the rare sweetness of its slice, on no account removing the fat, which is light and digestible, conveying harmony and softness. A white bread and a local wine are the perfect accompaniment.